MOUNT SAINT
MARY'S ARCHIVES AND
DEPARTMENT OF SPECIAL
COLLECTIONS
Collections Care Manual
Table of Contents
I. Washing
Glass
II. Dusting
Books
III. Framed Objects
IV. Caring for
Furniture
V. Cleaning
Ceramics
VI. Metals
General Guidelines
Gold
Silver
Lead and Pewter
Copper, Bronze & Brass
Iron
VII. Leather
VIII. Textiles
General Guidelines
Upholstered Furniture
Cleaning Carpets
Clothing & Tapestries
Bibliography
I. Washing
Glass
For windows with no UV filters:
- Dampen cloth with a
window cleaning solution. A
cotton cloth and a 50/50 solution of ethanol and water are recommended. For heavy dirt, a few drops of
household ammonia can be added.
- Wipe with moderate
pressure in a circular motion. Do
not let the solution come in contact with the window frame.
- Polish dry with a
second clean dry soft cloth.
For glass, follow the above instructions but make sure no
solution touches the frame or seeps underneath.
For treated glass or windows with UV filters, follow the
manufacturer’s instructions. If no
instructions were supplied, use only water and a soft cotton cloth.
Supplies
needed: clean soft cotton
cloths, cleaning solution (ethanol and water), ammonia (if needed), water.
II. Dusting
Books
The following method is appropriate for both cloth- and
leather-covered volumes:
-
Start with
clean, dry hands.
-
Start with
the top shelf and work down.
-
Wear
cotton gloves if they provide sufficient purchase.
-
Prepare a
clean space with wastebasket for cleaning individual volumes.
-
To remove
a book from the shelf, push back the books on either side and grasp the book
on both covers OR pull from the rear.
-
Carry
books one (for large volumes) or two (for smaller works) at a time. Keep the books in order.
-
Wipe the
shelf with an appropriate cloth or vacuum as described below.
-
After one
range is done, do the books in the unit on the other side of the aisle to
avoid brushing or blowing dust across to them.
-
To clean the
books:
-
Hold the
book firmly closed by the fore edge with the spine up.
-
Gently
wipe a soft cloth down the book away from the body, moving from the spine to
the fore edge.
-
Carefully
wipe the edges and spine.
-
Do not
brush across torn, broken, or crumbling surfaces. If the paper is acidic and
crumbling, do not dust the edges.
·
Remove foreign objects that will cause damage. Discard unless significant. Retained materials should be properly
housed with a separation sheet noting their original location.
·
If the spine or boards are loose or detached, tie in place lightly
with cotton twill tape. Tie in both
directions, and knot along an edge so that the knot does not press against other
surfaces. Note the call numbers of
the books that need to be boxed.
·
Place the dusted volume on a clean book truck or shelf until ready
for reshelving.
·
Do not push books to the back of the shelf as they need to have
air circulating behind them. Line
them up along the front edge.
·
Do not force books onto a shelf. Try to leave room for expansion on each
shelf.
·
Support books firmly but gently with proper sized bookends.
·
Clean the floor periodically.
Supplies needed:
dust cloths, cotton gloves, cotton twill, pencil and paper, book
truck.
Instructions for vacuuming books:
- Only stable books
may be vacuumed.
- Use a vacuum cleaner
with a brush attachment for shelves.
A Nilfisk vacuum is recommended.
- For books, secure
with tape or rubber bands a piece of webbing, such as cheesecloth or nylon
stockings, across the attachment to prevent the loss of loose fragments.
- For a thorough
cleaning, follow up with a dust cloth.
Supplies
needed: vacuum with brush
attachment, rubber bands or tape, webbing such as cheesecloth or nylon
stockings, dust cloths (optional).
Dust cloths appropriate for use in libraries
and archives are lint free and leave no residues. These include:
-
Soft
cotton cloths.
- One-Wipe Dust Cloth
by Guardsman is a yellow flannel chemically treated cloth. It can be hand washed in cold water
with a small amount of mild detergent, such as Ivory Snow or Lux, and reused
for up to ten times. They are
available in most hardware and grocery stores and archival catalogs, and cost
about $3.50 each.
-
Stretch ‘n
Dust by Johnson & Johnson is a disposable chemically treated yellow cloth
with light orange dots, which was originally developed by Chicopee
Products. To increase the
dust-holding capacity, the cloth can be gently stretched prior to use. The cost is approximately 35 cents
each. Call 1-800-835-2449 for the
nearest distributor.
-
Dust Bunny
is a white Tyvek and nylon cloth that has a slight electrostatic charge with
no chemical treatment. They can
be washed in a washing machine with a mild detergent and are
long-lasting. They cost about $5
each and are available from Light Impressions, University Products, and
Gaylord.
- Woven fabric cloths
(3M and Mystic Maid) can be used for cleaning items that require the use of
water only. They have no
chemicals or static and do not leave streaks.
The Library of Congress and the National Archives have
approved both One Wipes and Stretch n’ Dust for use in libraries and
archives. However, after prolonged
use the cleaner’s hands feel sticky since some of the chemicals used to treat
the cloth attach to the hands along with dust.
III. Framed
Objects
To move framed objects:
- Prepare a clean,
padded space on which to work.
- Do not attempt to
clean or move if the object, the frame, or the hanging mechanism appear to be
fragile. Examine them closely
before moving.
- Wear gloves
especially if the frame is metal or gilded. Make sure hands are clean.
- Never touch the
surface of a painting or any other framed object.
- Never carry a
painting by its stretcher.
- Always use two
people for an object larger than 2 feet by 3 feet, no matter how light it is.
- Plan the move ahead
of time; always know exactly where you are going.
- Carry only one
object at a time.
- Always use two
hands, one to support the frame at the bottom and the other to hold the frame
on one of the sides. Avoid
pressing on decorative elements.
- The image should
face the carrier.
- Before rehanging,
be sure the mechanism is in good condition. Do not rehang if there are any doubts.
To clean framed objects:
- Items hung on the
wall should rarely need dusting.
- Do not attempt to
dust fragile works.
- If framed objects
become dusty and are stable:
- Clean with a very
soft Japanese brush called a Hake brush.
- Start at the top
and progress in an orderly manner to the bottom.
- Vacuum the brush
as it becomes soiled.
- Loose dust can be
brushed away towards a vacuum nozzle held near but not touching the
frame. Place webbing over the
end of the nozzle.
·
Flaking, buckling, or otherwise deteriorating objects must be
cleaned by a conservator.
·
Frames in good condition can be dusted with a soft brush. Be sure to avoid the object in the
frame.
·
To clean glass, follow the directions in the first section. Do not allow any moisture to seep below
the glass.
·
Should anything fall off, place the fragment in a plastic bag and
note its origin.
Supplies needed:
cotton gloves, Hake and/or other soft brush.
IV.
Caring for Furniture
General guidelines for proper handling
include:
- Inspect the entire
object before moving it. Note and
compensate for any weakness detected.
- Work with clean
hands. Gloves must only be worn
when handling metal or fabric elements but are not required otherwise.
- Never drag
furniture.
- Plan the move ahead
of time and remove obstructions.
- Move only one
object at a time.
- If any pieces
become loose, place them in a bag with a separation sheet, or keep them with
the object and label them.
- Remove objects that
are displayed or stored on or in the piece before moving.
- Do not touch any
inlay, veneer, carving, or paint, as they are often fragile.
- Lift objects at
their most secure points.
- Do not strain under
the weight of an object. Get
additional help.
- If parts are
separable, move one part at a time.
To move case pieces:
-
Remove
drawers, noting exact location on a paper tag.
-
Start with
the top drawer.
-
Use the pull
to start the drawers out, then grip on the sides.
-
Pull drawer
out straight.
-
Do not force
sticky drawers.
To move chairs:
- Lift chairs at the
seat rails. Do not use the crest
rail, arms, or legs.
- Remove slipcovers
or seats before moving. Use
gloves when handling textiles.
- Do not lean on
chairs or place anything on seats.
To move tables:
- Be sure to remove
all obstacles before moving. Legs
are especially vulnerable to damage during transport.
- Remove leaves.
- Secure swing legs
and other moving parts.
- Lift by apron or
skirt, never by the top.
- If the top is made
of marble and removable, take it off and transport it VERTICALLY. If carried flat, it may break under
its own weight.
To clean drawers:
- Remove all lining
materials.
- Carefully vacuum
the interior using a vacuum on low suction with a brush attachment covered
with webbing (see section on vacuuming books).
- Carefully dust the
exteriors.
Vacuum permanently attached upholstery with low
suction using webbing (see section on vacuuming books). For detachable upholstery, consult the
section on textiles.
Supplies needed:
cotton gloves, vacuum with brush attachment and webbing.
To dust woodwork:
- Use a soft,
lint-free cloth.
- Work in the
direction of the grain.
- Dust the entire
piece, including behind and underneath.
- Use a soft brush on
carvings.
- For gilded objects,
wear cotton gloves and dust lightly and carefully using a soft brush.
- Do not lift veneer,
carvings, paint, gilt, etc. when dusting. Stop immediately if flaking occurs.
- Do not use a
feather duster.
- Change or shake out
dusting cloth frequently and clean brushes when they become soiled.
Supplies needed:
soft cloths or brushes, cotton gloves.
Waxing furniture:
- Waxing may be done
once a year to restore or maintain a surface that has already been
waxed.
- Do not wax
unfinished wood, marble, or decorative elements.
- Do not wax furniture
with painted or fragile finishes or furniture with cracked, lifting, or
flaking surfaces.
- Use only bowling
alley wax or Renaissance wax.
- Lightly apply a
small amount of paste with a clean soft cloth.
- Allow to dry.
- Buff vigorously.
Supplies needed:
bowling alley wax or Renaissance wax, soft cloths.
To clean marble tops:
- Apply Renaissance
wax with a clean cloth to polished areas only.
- Work the wax in
like a cleaner, turning the cleaning cloth often and moving over the surface
repeatedly.
- Let dry when the
cloth comes away clean.
- Buff.
Supplies needed:
Renaissance wax, soft cloths.
V.
Cleaning Ceramics
To move ceramic objects:
- Prepare a clean,
padded space in which to work.
-
Inspect
the object before moving it.
Compensate for any weaknesses while moving it.
-
Do not
wear loose clothing that may catch, knock over, or drag across objects.
-
Do not
wear jewelry that may abrade surfaces.
-
Handle
with clean, bare hands. Do not
wear cotton gloves.
-
Use latex
gloves for metallic lusterware, extensively gilded, or chemically unstable
ceramics.
-
NEVER pick
up a ceramic object by an extremity, such as handles, spouts, knobs, etc.,
even if they are meant for that purpose.
Never lift by a repaired section.
-
Remove all
loose or detachable parts, such as lids.
-
Use both
hands when picking up any item:
one to support the object and the other to cradle the object.
-
Support
the object by utilizing the center of gravity.
-
Use padded
baskets, boxes, or carts to transport objects.
-
If
multiple objects are to be moved, insert padding between each item to prevent
contact or shifting. Soft cloth
such as diapers, plastic bubble wrap, or padded tissue paper are suitable for
short term storage.
-
Plan the
move carefully. Clear the path
and open doors beforehand, or obtain help.
-
Never
apply adhesives to ceramics.
Supplies
needed: latex gloves (if
necessary); padding such as diapers, plastic bubble wrap, or tissue paper;
padded carrier.
To dust ceramic objects:
- Dust smooth
surfaces with a soft brush or a soft cotton cloth, such as a diaper or Dust
Bunny (see section on dusting books).
- Never use dust
cloths on surfaces that are rough or highly textured. Use only a soft brush or an air jet
(such as a hair dryer on low cool speed).
- NEVER use cleaning
sprays, oils, or liquids.
Supplies needed:
soft brush or clean cotton cloth.
To clean ceramic objects:
- Examine items
carefully before attempting further cleaning for identification of process,
weaknesses, and repairs.
- NEVER immerse in
water or wet clean unidentified objects, repaired items, or porous ceramics,
such as unglazed or low-fired earthenwares.
- Test all procedures
on an inconspicuous area first.
- Try to wipe off the
dirt with a soft clean cloth and room-temperature water.
- If the soil is
stubborn or oily:
- Use a rubber dish
pan or line a sink with a thick towel.
- Add several drops
of nun-sudsing, household-grade ammonia to room temperature water OR a small
amount of Ivory or Orvis soap.
- Wash only one
object at a time.
- Do not allow the
object to soak.
- Wear rubber
gloves to improve grip.
- Immerse and wash
carefully with a soft cloth. Do
not scrub.
- Rinse object
immediately in another rubber dish pan or over a padded surface.
- Blot with a soft
clean cloth to remove pools and droplets of water. Allow to air dry.
Supplies
needed: soft clean cloths,
room-temperature water, towel or rubber dish pan, ammonia or Ivory/Orvis soap,
rubber gloves.
VI.
Metals
General Handling Guidelines:
- Prepare a clean
surface padded preferably with thin polyethylene sheet foam.
- Always wear cotton
gloves when handling metals. The
salts and oils in human hands are extremely corrosive to metals.
- Remove detachable
or loose parts, such as lids, and carry them separately.
- NEVER pick up a
metal object by an extremity, such as handles, spouts, knobs, etc., even if
they are made for that purpose.
- Never allow metal
objects to come into contact with each other. Wrap each item, including detachable
parts, separately with acid-free tissue paper.
- Use both hands when
picking up a metal object. Use
one hand under the object’s center of gravity and use the other to support the
piece.
- Groups of small
objects may be carried together in a padded box or basket, but they must be
wrapped for protection.
- Plan the move
carefully. Plan the route and
clear all obstacles.
- Before replacing a
metal object on a potentially corrosive surface, cut a piece of felt or Mylar
to fit under the object.
Supplies
needed: cotton gloves,
polyethylene sheet foam, acid-free tissue paper, padded carrier.
To
Clean Gold Objects:
- Be very careful when
handling to prevent scratches and other deformations. Never touch the object with bare
hands.
- Loose dust and dirt
can be removed with a soft, dry watercolor brush.
- To remove oily or
greasy deposits, gently and carefully apply ethyl alcohol with cotton swabs or
a clean, soft cloth.
- If corrosion
develops, do not polish. Contact
a conservator.
Supplies needed:
cotton gloves, watercolor brush, ethyl alcohol and cotton swabs or clean,
soft cloth (if needed).
To
Clean Silver Objects:
-
Be very
careful when handling to prevent scratches and other deformations. Never touch the object with bare
hands.
-
Loose dust
and dirt can be removed with a soft, dry watercolor brush or soft cotton
cloth. Do not use coated cleaning
materials.
-
To remove
oily or greasy deposits, gently and carefully apply ethyl alcohol with cotton
swabs or a clean, soft cloth.
-
If deeper
cleaning is necessary:
- Wash in a plastic
tub with Ivory/Orvis detergent.
- Rinse gently and
thoroughly.
- Dry immediately
with a soft cotton cloth.
- If ornate
decorations prevent thorough drying, use a hair dryer on low cool speed.
Supplies needed:
cotton cloth or watercolor brush, ethyl alcohol and cotton swabs
(optional), Ivory/Orvis (optional), hair dryer (optional).
To Polish Silver Objects
Since polishing removes silver, repeated and heavy polishing
must be avoided. In addition, some
objects created since the late nineteenth century have been darkened
intentionally by the artist. If in
doubt, consult a museum curator or conservator. Do not attempt to polish items that have
had coatings applied in the past.
It is wise to consult a curator or conservator before proceeding with any
polishing. Mineral spirits or
Stoddard Solvent can be applied with cotton and a toothpick to remove polish
residues.
Procedures:
- Mask
water-sensitive areas such as wood or ivory with plastic wrap.
- Make a slurry
(approximately the consistency of thick cream) of precipitated chalk in
distilled or deionized water.
- Apply slurry in
small amounts to tarnished areas with cotton cloths or swabs.
- Polish gently and
in a circular manner. Excessive
force will scratch the surface.
- Discard the cotton
as soon as it is soiled to minimize scratching, and be careful with the cotton
swab sticks, which can scratch the surface accidentally.
- Remove residual
chalk by washing surfaces with a very dilute solution of detergent in
deionized or distilled water using a soft, natural bristle oil painting brush.
- Rinse with
deionized or distilled water.
- Dry wet surfaces
with soft, absorbent cloths.
- Use a hair dryer
set on low cool speed to dry inaccessible areas. Do not allow water to remain on the
surface or in crevices for prolonged periods of time.
- Remaining traces of
dry chalk may be removed with a soft-bristle brush.
Tarnishing may be inhibited by the application of a stable,
reversible resin such as Renaissance Wax.
This should be done by someone with experience. If the coating becomes yellow or gray,
or tarnishing appears, the coating should be removed and replaced. The object should also be recoated
immediately if the coating becomes scratched or damaged.
Supplies
needed: precipitated chalk,
deionized or distilled water, cotton cloths or swabs, Ivory Liquid detergent,
brushes (oil painting and soft-bristled), hair dryer (optional).
To
Clean Lead and Pewter Objects:
- Dust lightly with a
soft cotton cloth or soft brush.
Do not use coated cleaning materials.
- Always wear cotton
gloves.
- To remove grease,
wipe with a soft cotton cloth and ethyl alcohol (ethanol).
- Do not polish.
If white, powdery spots occur, consult a conservator. This may be a sign of contamination.
Supplies needed:
cotton gloves, cotton cloth or soft brush, ethyl alcohol (optional).
To Clean Copper, Bronze, and Brass (Copper
Alloys):
- Always use cotton
gloves. Never touch with bare
hands.
- Use a clean cotton
cloth or soft brush to remove loose dirt and dust.
- Use ethyl alcohol
(ethanol) to remove fingerprints and grease. Test the solvent in an inconspicuous
area with a cotton swab first to make sure it does not remove original
coatings.
Supplies needed:
cotton gloves, cotton cloth or soft brush, ethyl alcohol (optional).
Before removing polish residues and wax or attempting deeper
cleaning, consult a museum curator or conservator. Be careful not to remove the natural
patina or original surface treatment.
With the approval of a conservator, the object may be cleaned using
precipitated chalk following the same directions for cleaning silver
objects.
To Remove Polish Residues And Candle Wax from Copper
Alloys:
- Carefully apply
mineral spirits or Stoddard Solvent with cotton and a toothpick.
- Clean with ethyl
alcohol and a soft cotton cloth.
Candle wax is particularly hazardous for copper alloys and
should be removed if possible.
Supplies
needed: cotton gloves, mineral
spirits or Stoddard Solvent, cotton cloth, toothpick, ethyl alcohol.
To Clean Iron Objects:
- Dust with a soft
cotton cloth or brush.
- Be sure to remove
all ashes from fireplace tools.
- Consult a
conservator for guidance on further cleaning.
VII.
Leather
- Dust or gently
vacuum through a screen.
- Never apply
dressings or oiling or any other type of solution.
- Intricate carvings
can be cleaned with an air jet from a nasal syringe or camera cleaning bulb.
Supplies needed:
cotton cloths, vacuum (optional), air jet (if needed).
For leather-bound books or other items suffering from red
rot:
- Wrap the book in
acid-free, buffered paper or in a chemically inert plastic sleeve.
- Contact a
conservator.
VIII.
Textiles
General Handling Guidelines
- Wash and dry hands
thoroughly and often.
- Always wear cotton
gloves.
- Remove all jewelry
that can become snagged in fabric fibers.
- NEVER smoke, eat,
or drink near textiles or in the work area.
- Avoid contact with
clothing.
- Work on a clean,
well-padded surface, such as a mattress pad covered by a clean white cotton
sheet.
- Use a low-power
hand-held vacuum.
- For fabrics with a
nap, vacuum in the direction of the nap.
- Exercise extreme
caution when vacuuming near metallic threads, braid, trim, or areas of wear.
- For lightweight or
fragile textiles (or when in doubt):
- Place a
fiberglass window screen over the textile. Fix white cotton tape around the
border of the screen.
- Use a clean brush
attachment, and do not allow this attachment to touch the ground or any
other dirty area.
- Carefully place
the nozzle of the hose on the screen.
- Do not drag the
nozzle, but lift it up and move it to the next area to be vacuumed. NEVER drag it back and forth over
the fabric.
- Check the
material often to make sure you are not damaging the fabric.
- Do not vacuum
weakened areas.
- Do not allow any
part of the vacuum to touch the object, since it may cause damage.
Upholstered Furniture
- Avoid touching
upholstery when moving furniture.
- If touching is
unavoidable, wear gloves only if they will provide an adequate grip. If not, wash and dry hands thoroughly
before handling.
- Remove separate
pieces to work area for examination and cleaning.
- Vacuum carefully
through a screen as described in the previous section. Avoid pressure that may abrade the
fabric.
- Be sure to remove
debris from corners, folds, and pleats.
Cleaning Carpets
- Vacuum regularly
according to the cleaning schedule.
- If a rug is very
dirty, take it outside and gently shake it.
- Vacuum rugs on both
sides.
- Carpeting with pile
should be vacuumed in the direction of the pile.
- Deteriorating or
fragile valuable collection carpets should be vacuumed through a screen, as
described above.
- Always use two
people when moving a rug.
- Consult a
conservator before deeper cleaning of valuable collection rugs.
Cleaning Clothing and Tapestries
Obtain the advice of a conservator before attempting any
cleaning. In general, use acid-free
buffered tissue paper for storing plant-based fabrics, such as linen and cotton,
and use acid-free non-buffered tissue paper storing for animal-based fabrics,
such as wool and silk. When in
doubt, use acid-free non-buffered tissue paper.
Bibliography
Aucella, Frank;
Heaver, Melissa Marsh; Reilly, Julie A., Woodrow Wilson House Collections
Care Plan, September 1993.
Biddle,
Michaelle, “Dust Cloths for Rare or Valuable Materials,” Arizona State Library,
Archives and Public Records, Arizona History and Archives Division, http://www.lib.az.us/archives/g-dust.htm.
Heaver, M.,
National Trust Collections Cleaning Manual, 1998.
McColgin,
Michael, “Cleaning Up Your Act,” Arizona State Library, Archives and Public
Records, Arizona History and Archives Division, http://www.lib.az.us/archives/g-youract.htm.
Schultz, Arthur
W. (ed.), Caring for Your Collections, New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1992.
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